Five days into Christmas Market exploration, we left France for the German city of Heidelberg. Nestled along the Neckar River, it is in German state of Baden-Württemberg. Heidelberg has a lovely old city which retrains much of its charm due avoiding much damage in WWII. For a mid-sized city (pop. 160k), it is lively due to the University of Heidelberg the oldest and one of the most prestigious in Germany.

Heidelberg was our base for 9 days as we explored the city and visited Christmas Markets in other Baden-Württemberg cities such as Stuttgart and Badin-Badin. By staying and traveling within the state, we were able to leverage the Regional Train deal known as the Baden-Württemberg Ticket. This one-day ticket allowed us unlimited regional trail travel for two persons at only €32 total.

Heidelberg is a long and narrow city set between the Neckar and Königstuhl hill. The Christmas Markets are concentrated in the Altstadt or “old town” which runs west from Bismarckplatz. Hauptstrasse is main pedestrian street that runs length of the Altstadt, roughly 1 mile, and is the commercial hub. There are multiple Christmas Markets along the Hauptstrasse to explore.

We stayed in lovely 1 bedroom apartment 1 block from the Marktplatz in the Altstadt. It was surprisingly quiet despite being so close to the main Christmas Market. On a cold, drizzly evening, we could grab a sausage along with a mug of Gluhwein and be back to watch a World Cup game in our toasty apartment in minutes.

Heidelberg Christmas Markets

More than any other Christmas Markets we visited, Heidelberg’s seemed to be focus on the experience and having a good time. Food and drink vendors outnumbered the stalls selling Christmas items. Plus, there are loads of covered and uncovered tables to enjoy a drink and socialize. The 6 individual Christmas Markets were modest in size and spread throughout the Altstadt making for a fun stroll from one to another.

• One mug styled used across all the Heidelberg markets.
• Our favorite of all Christmas Market mug.
• Very good food options but can easily grab a table at a nearby restaurants if tired of “Christmas Market” fare.
• Where we first had Heidelbeerglühwein (blueberry mulled wine) – our favorite glühwein!!!!
• Nighttime visit is not a must, lighting is nice but does not standout.

Other tips if you’re spending more than a few hours in Heidelberg:

• Visit Schloss Heidelberg, the 13th century castle ruin overlooking the town. It’s worth the trek up the hill (or ride up incline rail.) The Apothecary Museum, housed in the castle and included in your entry cost, has descriptions in German and English, and is worth stopping in.
• The Philosopher’s Walk, or Philosophenweg, is a pathway on the north side of the Neckar River that runs along Saints Mountain. University philosophers used to traverse the route pondering life’s most important questions. It’s a beautiful walk with fabulous views of the Old Town across the river.
• Heidelberg Hbf (train station) is 3km from Marktplatz, roughly 40 min walk. If staying in the Altstadt, you will want to take a bus or cab.
• Restaurants & Cafes we really liked: Vetter’s Alt Heidelberger Brauhaus, Rada Coffee & Roesterei, Sapiens Cafe & Bar, Hans Hirsch’s Kurpfalzbräu